What is the most important thing about a Black Forest gateau? The chocolate, the little swirls of cream? It is the kirsch, that clearly discernible alcohol which makes the gateau genuine, which delights elderly ladies and scares off children, who then are happier spooning up ice-cream, provided it doesn't contain any of that horrid stuff which burns your tongue so dreadfully. A connoisseur will immediately object that it is a complete waste to put kirsch in cream cakes. And besides, it's a man's thing. Like in the old days, when only raftsmen, woodcutters and miners got a taste of the home-distilled schnapps, when they needed to arm themselves at snack-times for some heavy work in the open air.